So it was for Richard Bassett, when he took himself off to Trieste in the late 1970s, fresh out of Cambridge, and off to see the world. Fortuitously, he also took his french horn, of which he appears to have been quite accomplished. As a young man about town, with a curious mind, good manners, and a most pleasant demeanour, he has no trouble getting to know people, making friends, meeting interesting and extraordinary characters with stories and anecdotes of life perched on the border of Yugoslavia and Italy. There was still much dislike of Italy in this area, Yugoslavia had started its path to early 1990s imploding following the death of Tito. Bassett lives there for 3 years or so, landing himself a position as the lead french horn in a local orchestra with a punishing schedule of rehearsals and performances. Now we can see why Eastern Europe produces amazing orchestras and musicians.
Following a return to London, where he approaches The Times to be become an on-the-ground reporter in Vienna - such a recruitment process wouldn't even get a look in today- he makes his way to Vienna which was the centre of the Austro-Hungarian empire till WWI came along, with the dissolution of the monarchy and rearrangement of borders, banishment of the royal family, the horrors of WWII and invasion by the Nazis, a brief rule by Russia after the war. Again he slips sublimely into the circles that matter most, meeting people such as the former Empress of the empire, at this time fabulous in her 90s. He captures the essence of this ancient and historical city, at the cross roads of East and West, works his contacts and acquaintances. An intriguing city and society to be living in.
Next stop is Prague at the time of the Velvet Revolution, when the Communists were thrown out for good. The tidal wave of change throughout eastern Europe takes him to Warsaw and we read about how terribly the Poles have been treated by Germany, Russia, and others in between over the centuries. There is an element of danger and tension throughout this chapter, Bassett being under constant surveillance as he treads carefully through Romania and Bucharest; never too sure if he is in the right place while in Berlin.
This is a great memoir of a time and way of doing things that no longer exists. We are reading so many books about Europe during WWII, stories of concentration camp survival. of the lives of ordinary people through out Europe during this time. But very little of life behind the Iron Curtain told by those who were there. I loved this, exactly the type of memoir I adore. My only criticism - more photos would have helped all the imaginations in my mind.
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